Isolation on the Milford Track

Amid the world news of the spread of Covid 19 and folks beginning to self isolate, we set out into the bush in Fiordland National Park to hike the Milford Track. We had not idea what to expect on the trail and little did we know how the world would change when we emerged. Our booking for this walk dates back to June 2019 when the DOC bookings opened for the year.

With our hopes set high for our epic Kiwi experience: an adventure and challenge for Jody and Tanya, a chance for Will to show us the New Zealand he has been telling us about for the last 10-years, and Michelle (the reluctant hiker) to prove she can carry weight on her back versus shopping bags and cover some miles.

Typically, the Milford Track is completed over four days and three nights. We had planned to complete the hike with a cruise in Milford Sound after reaching the end of the track. Unfortunately, in February 2020, the South Island experienced massive rainfall in a short time period and the track suffered significant damage, causing the track to be closed completely for three-weeks.

(Side note: We had also planned to hike the Routeburn track, however the damage to this walk was so immense that is was closed for the season. In fact, a slip damaged the Hilden hut with 31 people inside and we had planned on sleeping there!)

The Milford Track did re-open but with a change to the route and intinerary as we had intended to hike through, but the end of the track remains closed to independent hikers, so it changed to an “out and back” route. We were grateful to be able to access this beauty, in any form.

After saying our goodbyes to Cottage 45, we loaded the Highlander with our packs and set out to drive to Te Anau Downs, where we parked the car to board a ferry to cross Lake Te Anau. En route we were treated to an stunning rainbow over Lake Te Anau that seemed to follow us at every turn.

With the sun shining on us on the top deck, we absorbed the views of the mountains around us, excited about the adventure that awaited at the top of Lake Te Anau. After a 1-hour and 15-minute ride, we disembarked at Glade Wharf and dipped our boots in a solution as another form of biosecurity.

A few group pictures were in order at the official Milford Track sign, where we first met the sandflies (like little black flies) and the sweet little robins.

(Side note – hiking pack weight in the group ranged from 24lbs-34lbs)

An easy 1km walk to the first overnight stop for guided walkers (not us!) at the Glade House, brought us to a long suspension bridge over the Clinton River. We traversed a well graded track through the beech forest, pausing to take note of the native flora and fauna.

We stopped to fuel our endeavours, having lunch at a prime spot along the river.

The Clinton Hut was reached just before the 3-mile marker. Along the path off the main track to the hut we were greeted by Ranger Ross, a 70-year-old friendly kiwi giant, carrying a shovel over his shoulder, asking us if we were okay and inviting us to make ourselves at home! Happy to shed our heavy packs despite the short day 1 walk, we claimed our bunks in bunk house #2. We explored the area and located the helipad with an epic view of the valley.

Hanging out in the kitchen hut, we enjoyed some snacks and started a puzzle with the knowledge of a strong chance that in this hut in the middle of the bush, there would be pieces missing.

We met Ross, estimated to 6’8″ and who spoke with a whistle, and joined him for a nature walk down to the river. With a lecture about the Manuka, beech trees, and other edible/poisonous and medicinal plants and information about the variety of birds, even with a demonstration of the sound of the kiwi bird!

After making our way back to the hut, we used the “cooker” bench and Jody and Will’s trusty jet boil stoves to heat water to rehydrate our backpacker meals (beef bourgenious and lamb risotto). Not too bad despite the sodium content.

We shared dinner conversation with an Aussie/Kiwi contingent of a dad, son and daughter in law. An after dinner “hut talk” from Ranger Ross provided us with information on hut etiquette, safety, information about the local birds and efforts to trap stoats (like a weasel), rats and ferrel cats which threaten the local bird population. Regarding the water in the hut, Ross made a point to pour himself a cup of water, took a long drink and stated it was safe to drink…and that he was 5’6″ when he got to the hut 16-years ago! Lol!

Ross provided us with some intel about things to check out! First, we took a short night time walk to the impressive glow-worm grotto. Wearing our headlamps we stepped off the main trail and turned off our “torches”. The glow worms showed themselves and we were treated to a free showing of this awesome spectacle! So cool! Back to the bunkhouse to bundle up and climb into our sleeping bags, warn Will not to snore, and don our earplugs, eye masks and cross our fingers for a restful nights sleep.

Overall, a cozy sleep was had by all and Will was not the snorer in the bunkhouse! I was awoken by Jody tapping my shoulder (#earplugs) and his red headlamp at 7:30 AM. After a breakfast of muesli, dehydrated cooked breakfast and coffee (thanks to Jody’s French press for his jet-boil), we quickly loaded our packs and hit the trail. Jody and I set out ahead of Will and Michelle.

The trail from Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut was about 16 km (although Garmin recorded about 18 km!) Another tip from Ross was to look out for the remnants of a phone box (70-meters along the trail after a cut out log you had to step over, behind a large tree and if you reach the four-mile marker you have gone too far!) and insulators that carried the phone wire along the track back in the day. Can you imagine?

We were treated to meeting some really cool birds – the robins, the weka (bush hen), bell birds, fan tails, bush pigeons.

We both separately enjoyed a snack/lunch at Hidden Lake. We were offered our initial views of MacKinnon Pass along the trail.

Upon arrival at Mintaro Hut, Jody and I claimed bunks upstairs at the hut (hitting our heads several times on the rafters and bunk beds before learning to avoid them).

After we ate our lunch of rice and tuna and a roll, we headed out on our own to tackle the 8km return hike to the memorial on the MacKinnon Pass.

Thankfully we were able to leave our packs behind, as this part of Milford Track proved more technical and a climb, especially after hiking 16 km already. We successfully made it to the top and were rewarded with epic views of the Arthur Valley, which was what Clinton MacKinnon was trying to reach with his route over the pass. It was super windy and cold on the top, so after some quick pictures and views we headed back down.

Being March 17th, I had many moments thinking of my dad, who had passed away 2 years to the day. I can still hear his voice in my head and I am comforted by his sayings and his approach to life. As I scrabbled down the side of the mountain, I could hear him saying “who was the crazy bastard who built this trail over this mountain?!!”

The “fabulous four” were together again, as we were greeted by Will and Michelle at the deck on the Mintaro Hut. They had enjoyed settling in and had had a wee swim/quasi shower in nearby Lake Mintaro. With all of the crew feeling the miles covered on the track today, we celebrated with another re-hydrated supper, tea and the remnants of Will’s Pinot Noir wine he carried in…with a toast to my dad! “Just keeping putting one foot ahead of the other” was my/his mantra!

A hut talk by Ranger Murray again offered hut safety briefing and a similar talk about the birds and conservation, but also shared with us some interesting information about the Kakapo parrot that is being brought back from near extinction at a Sanctuary. We also learned that guided hikers were actually doing the full Milford Track (#moneytalks) but at their own risk as bridges are washed out and they would have to cross a river that potentially could rise to shoulder height! A bit of frustration for us not to be able to complete the track and see Sutherland falls, but nonetheless the risk seems too great.

After a less comfy sleep (due to harder mattresses and soreness from the hike), we woke around 630am to gather a quick breakfast (oatmeal, coffee and cooked breakfast) and pack up, to hit the trail for the 21km tramp back to catch the ferry at Glade Wharf.

We were well warned not to miss the 4:30 PM ferry we booked as it does not wait for you! Michelle and Will set out about 30-minutes ahead, and we followed, catching up about midway along the trail. We shared lunch at a grassy high spot above the Clinton River with an unreal view of the mountains around us. We shared venison sticks and chocolate filled licorice sticks…along with other life sustaining trail foods!

Setting out for the final leg of the tramp, Will and Michelle made a pit stop at Clinton Hut and Jody and I pushed on, with stops for bird watching and picture taking. We landed at the end of the trail, were we buoyed by the accomplishment of the Milford Track!

We did it!

Although we could not complete the entire through tramp, our “out and back” walk was about 55 km total (for those who did the MacKinnon memorial piece) and we felt that it was a worthy achievement! Way to go gang! We were so blessed that we had such clear weather, with hardly a drop of rain. Such luck!

While we waited for the ferry (which we could see waiting on the lake), we were treated to watching a helicopter pick up and drop off supplies to the Glade House and beyond. This helicopter pilot had skills and was so efficient with his accuracy at the barge. Despite the entertainment, we were happy to see the ferry dock providing an escape from the sand flies, the eventual promise of a shower, and some non-dehydrated food!

After 3-days of hiking and being secluded from the world news, once we had access to cellular data, we were quickly bombarded with the rapidly escalating Covid-19 situation and threat. We all mused that we wanted to go back to the beauty of the Milford Track.

Our epic vacation was about to change drastically….