Torres del Paine: Trekking the W

The W Trek is the most popular trekking route in Chilean Patagonia. In fact it tops many worldwide lists. Winding through the Torres del Paine National Park, it’s name comes from the W shape on the map created by travelling up and back three separate valleys.

The trek is over 60km and typically done over four days, staying a Refugios along the way. Refugios are lodges that offer basic accommodation, food, drink and camping.

Day 1: Los Torres

We left early from our hotel in Puerto Natales for the two hour drive north to Torres del Paine.  We were able to leave the bulk of our luggage as we would be returning four days later. We had also left items in Buenos Aires and laughed that we had left a trail of luggage across South America.

We were now a group of fourteen; the original eight from Nova Scotia, our American friend Erin and Aussie/Brit Amy who had joined several days before, and new joiners – British couple John and Beverley, Aussie Jimmy and French Canadian Patrick. Our CEO Rodrigo was joined by local guides Nicholas and Gonzalo, making 17 people total.

We were over a week into our trip and due for some rain. The showers started when we arrived at the welcome center, so we layered on whatever waterproof gear we had. The day would have us trekking up the Ascencio Vally to the base of Las Torres (The Towers) and back for a total of 25 km.

The trail wound along the base of the mountain, over suspension bridges – accommodating only two trekkers at a time – but quickly turned into a climb.

The rain continued but we tried not to let it dampen our spirits; we were hiking the Patagonian W Trek after all! We reached the “windy pass” but felt just a light “Patagonian breeze”. We descended to a dense forest and came upon our first Refugio, Chileno. Given the inclement weather, it was packed with trekkers drying out, so after a brief stop we carried on.

Our rain gear seemed to be working – Tanya’s waterproof Solomon hikers, MEC Goretex gaiters, Columbia rain pants, Kuhl rain jacket, Osprey pack with rain cover were getting a nod of appreciation. Dry feet are the best! Jody’s Patagonia rain jacket, NorthFace rain paints and Keen hiking boots were equally dry. We continued our ascent with hopes that the weather would improve and clouds our dissipate. Climbing up through the woods was somewhat taxing and we began to feel damp on the inside, thus it was difficult to tell if the the rain was soaking through our gear.

We arrived at the Torres ranger camp, which offered an open shelter and we crowded in and dug into our box lunches. Dampness and a chill quickly set in with the stop. We had a group meeting and were given 2 options: A. Continue with the final ascent to the base of Las Torres with a slim chance of seeing the dramatic three towers and the turquoise lagoon below, or B. Head down the trail back to the starting point. Given that Tanya’s hands were freezing and her hand warmer packs quickly went from slightly warm to soggy and cold, that the rain was not slowing and that there was a significant chance of snow at the top of the trail, Tanya quickly made her decision. She could here her father saying “did she not know enough to come out of the rain?”   Beverly from Britain noted she was “soaked to her knickers”. The “no” camp consisted of six trekkers while the “yes” camp, including Jody opted for the challenge.  So after a quick goodbye, we separated and Rodrigo led the NO camp down the trail, while Nico and Gonzalo headed up with the remaining eight brave trekkers.

The final ascent was 1 km, climbing 300 m over rocky terrain. The rain quickly turned to snow, and soon the narrow path was icy and treacherous. The group was travelling at a good pace, but sometimes getting stuck behind slower trekkers. We saw many people who were not well equipped for the conditions (jeans, running shoes), but whose determination was winning out.

The reward at the top was solely one of accomplishment, as the towers were completely hidden by clouds and falling snow. High fives all around, a few quick photos, and we were ready to retrace our steps back to the welcome center.

Another dramatic shift in the weather brought sunshine, and along with it intense winds. The promise of four seasons in a day was being delivered. The “Windy Pass” lived up to its name and we quickly learned how to brace ourselves against the gusts, stay away from the edge of the trail and not fight the wind. One benefit of the wind was that it dried out our clothes in a hurry!

The No camp had waited for about 1.5 hrs, and had a sigh of relief when radio contact was made that they were safe and close to the meeting point.

On the bus, the groups shared stories of their different experiences along the 1.5 hr bus ride south to the Serrano campsite – a private campsite outside the national park.  Upon arrival, we were given our dry sacs and our sleeping bags and shown our tents for the night. The wind continue to gust as we set up our sleeping quarters and changed out of our hiking gear.  Some of the group attempted showers, although they seemed to be supplied with glacier water, while most embraced the experience of camping, forgoing the showers!

Supper was in the main house – olives, trail mix, soup with merken spice, bread, salad fixings, and a hearty pork roast with mashed potatoes, finished with a chocolate mousse and washed down with wine.  We celebrated our day and were given instructions for the next day regarding start time and expectations for the next day’s hike.

Day 2: Paine Grande and Grey Glacier

After a breezy cool night in the tent, we woke up to our breathtaking landscape and sorted our gear. We shared stories of our night over breakfast; some folks survived their first night in a tent in over 45 years while other veteran campers had to reach their hand into the back of the freezing cold water in the toilet tank in attempts to make it flush! Breakfast was satisfactory with hot coffee, eggs, toast, ham and cheese. We were provided with our box lunches and we piled on the bus to take a scenic drive to catch a catamaran ferry on Lake Pehoé.

We arrived at our next campsite, Paine Grande . Tents were chosen, gear settled in tents and visits to the baños had the group prepared to trek the west side of the W.

Due to damp hiking boots, Tanya’s feet were cold and she applied some heated feet warmers. Once they started to work, her feet were on FIRE as the group set out on the hike to Grey Lake and the lookout point for Grey Glacier. As per each of our hikes, we layered up and layered down along the trail. However, this trek treated us to wild weather – a wet spring snow, pelting us in the face and covering our gear as we approached the lookout.

As luck would have it, the snow stopped and skies cleared to grant us a surreal view of the immense Grey Glacier.  Icebergs dotted the Grey Lake, and we were told a 3.5km chunk of the Glacier calved off it last year thus many icebergs remain from this massive natural wonder. The sunlight shining on the rippled top of the glacier was a sight to see!

We then headed back down the trail to camp, where showers were open from 6-10pm.  For some, the happy hour specials trumped the risk of a cold shower or a long line up, so a quick wash in the tent and off to the Refugio bar for some drinks.  Supper was at 8pm for our group and Nico had to provide tickets for us to enter the dining hall to eat.  So we stood in line and were served cafeteria style.

After dinner, we gathered in the bar again and teased our guide Rodrigo about a blond female trekker who noticed him on the boat!  Our girls in the group provide bachelor TV show style commentary to entertain ourselves while they guys rolled their eyes and drank $12 beers.

Our night in the tent was super windy! Some were scared to leave their tents, others heard snaps in the lines and one of our poles came loose, but we all made it through with various amounts of sleep. At one point, Tanya was hit in the head by the tent! Joanna lost a gaiter, which had blown out of a boot in her vestibule. It was later retrieved from Gary and Gerard’s vestibule. It felt like the wind was just messing with us.

Day 3: French Valley

Jody’s watch synced with his phone and wrongly adjusted for daylight savings time, so we woke up an hour earlier than needed (530am). We watched the sun rise before packing our gear, ready for the next adventure!  Breakfast was again cafeteria style – eggs, thick white toast, fruit salad, oatmeal, cereal, coffee, and cake! We were given our box lunch (huge chicken salad sandwich with cheese and hearts of palm, trail mix, granola bars, chocolate, juice box) and gathered to set out for the French Valley hike.  From here our dry bags and sleeping bags were sent by boat to the next Refugio.

Along this trail, we could see the devastation caused by a massive forest fire in 2010.  We were told that the fire started when an unregistered trekker was burning his toilet paper, and it burnt for 3 months.  It was fought by air and ground but the Patagonian winds fed the fire relentlessly.  Rodrigo called it a graveyard, stating that the trees will never return to its prior state as they were over 100 years old and the climate has since changed. This was actually one of three fires the park has had in its recent history, all caused by trekkers.

After a few hours we came upon the Italiano campsite. There we had a quick stop for the baños and Nico checked with the ranger about the status of the trail to the lookout given the strong winds.  While the trail was open, we were advised to proceed with caution.

We all hiked up to a point on the trail, where the winds were strong.  The group was again given two options – to head back or to continue, expecting strong winds at the lookout point where we would see a different perspective of the valley but maybe not the peaks. Given that I was neither wet or cold and becoming more used to the winds, Jody and I pushed on, while 5 of the group headed down.

After about 40 minutes over some more technical trail we reached the lookout. It offered 360 degree views, each very different but equally spectacular.  With the French Glacier and mountain peaks to the west, the turquoise lakes to the south, granite ridge to the east and the ascending forested valley to the north.  While it was gusty, we spent time taking in the views and selfies in each direction.  The glacier looked different than the previous two glaciers we had seen, as this one was covered with sediment it had collected and was in a valley, not ending in a lake.

On the way down, a distant rumble caught our attention and saw those ahead on the trail pointing back at the glacier. An avalanche of snow falling from the mountain peaks down onto the glacier was the source of the sound.  Once we made our way down the trail back to the italiano campsite we continued to hear huge ominous rumbling of avalanches in the valley. We ate our lunches and were joined by a strange chicken eagle creature!

We continued for another 5 km to our final campsite, Los Cuernos. The path was rocky and Tanya began to experience pain in both ankles, caused from friction from her hiking boots. It made for an arduous several hours, but was was worth it when we arrived to get the boots off and have a shower!  With no access to a hair dryer, Tanya stood outside the tent in the wind and within two minutes it was 90% dry (which is a record for her, even with a hair dryer).

Our tents were 4-season Marmot tents on platforms, at the base of the awesome peaks, surround by spiky calafate bushes. Other campsite were more open, dotted along trails amongst the shrubs and low trees.  Once gear was settled and beds made, smelling a bit cleaner, we headed to the Refugio for Happy hour.  We enjoyed some Chilean wine and beers before supper. We informed Gerard that he had not missed any French bakeries or wine at the French lookout. He informed us that upon reaching his tent he had a siesta!

We had a wonderful dinner: vegetable soup and bread, lima beans as a salad, hake fish and quinoa, and a frozen calafate mousse. Some stayed up a bit later drinking wine and playing Jenga in the Refugio. 

Going to bed, it was eerily calm with no wind. Not to worry though, as things picked up in the night. The wind would start with a rumble and a whistle as it crossed the lake. Then when it arrived, the tent would whip and bend like it might blow away and take you and the platform with it. Earplugs are a wonderful thing and essential equipment for this trip!

Day 4: Completing the W!

Sleeping bags dropped off at 730am, typical breakfast at 8am, then dry bags dropped of to the guides for 830am; we set out on the trail at 9am. Our bags would be either transported by boat (fingers crossed) or horse (much slower).  It was a beautiful warm day, and Tanya opted to forgo hiking boots for trail shoes to prevent chaffing, choosing her steps carefully due to less stability and lack of water proofing.

We ascended out of the campsite and like horses headed for the barn, we made good time. It might have had something to do with the 80km/hr plus winds at our back, but it really was a bit tricky. As we trekked along the trail with the mountainous peaks to our left and the turquoise lake to our right, the wind created squalls on the top of the lake, picking up water and resulted in beautiful rainbows that were truly breathtaking.  Even a double rainbow, oh, Patagonia, you are so cool!

We pushed along and crossed several suspension bridges and met a gaucho Sherpa with a train of two horses. They were going to get our things, so we knew then we would beat our bags to the end!

The wind blew strong, but the trail was easy Patagonian flat and it was  beautifully sunny.  We stopped in a relatively sheltered area by a stream where we enjoyed our lunch of chicken and cheese on a bun and trail mix. Nico shared with us his last chocolate covered ginger, giving us the final energy to complete the W. As we walked on completing the final kilometers, we were offered a view of two of the three Torres peaks we missed on day one, perhaps leaving us wanting more.

After waiting over an hour at the welcome centre for the horses to arrive with our bags, we wearily boarded the bus back to Peurto Natales.

A few in the group were talking about hiking the longer O Circuit someday, while others planned to never step inside a tent again. Ultimately, everyone left with a strong sense of accomplishment. We had conquered the W Trek, and it had delivered on its reputation as one of the greatest. The scenery, the weather and the whole experience will not be forgotten!

If you’d like to read about the rest of our Patagonian adventure, check out our Patagonia in Review article. If you’d like to receive notifications of future posts, find the Subscribe button at the bottom of the page.